Austrian Traditions II:
Customs and Events in the Annual Cycle

May ("Mai")

The night before the 1st of May is called "Philippinacht" (St. Philip′s Night). The apostle Philip is the patron saint of order. To enforce order, mobs of young men stroll the streets that night and pick up everything loose and untidy and bring it to a collection point (normally near the church). The next day people can get their possessions back, but typically pay a "fine": a donation towards a "young, local idiots want booze"-fund.

A traditional 'Dirndl' dress for children.

The first of May is another day off work, because it′s Labour Day. This is a big deal for hardcore social democrats, you go to processions, wave red flags and dream of the 1970ies. If you are more into macho-culture, you can go to the big military parade in Vienna and admire the toys of Austria′s mighty troops. On the countryside, "Maibäume" (maypoles) are erected, supplemented with alcoholic beverages, folk dance, umpta music, yodelling (in the Alps) and market fairs. Plenty to look forward to.

At some point in spring (the date varies from year to year), the spectacular Narzissenfest ("Daffodil Fest") in Altaussee is held. As if the scenery and the pretty towns of the Ausseerland in the Salzkammergut were not enough draw the crowds - at the Narzissenfest, ten thousands of daffodils are knitted together to form enormous sculptures that are then pulled around on wagons or boats (in the lake), so that everybody can admire them and go "Woooh!".

It is involved with an enormous amount of work and part of the regional identity. The Aussee people are famous for their fest and they know it. Plenty of other folk culture goes along with the Narzissenfest, and many girls wear their elaborate "Ausseer Dirndl" for the celebrations. I am not a big fan of traditional Austrian clothing, but the Ausseer Dirndl is ways hot. Bring your camera (for the daffodils).

June ("Juni")

On the second Thursday after Pentecost, the Fronleichnamstag takes place. Both Pentecost and Fronleichnam are bank holidays (oops, here we go, the true reason why Austria is so catholic…). Try to make it to a small community on Fronleichnam, since there processions are done, involving the local societies, clubs and guilds and a local marching band in full costume.

The "Samson Procession" in the Lungau region. Weird, bizarre, makes no sense at all - but it is fun to watch.

The most famous one is the "Samson" procession in Salzburg′s Lungau region. Under the cheers of the crowds, consisting of local rifle clubs, firemen in parade uniforms, drunk men in lederhosen and the odd tourist, a figure of several metres that is up to 80 kilograms heavy is carried along the streets. That′s Samson. I have never seen the event myself, but it is said to be very cool. The most famous Samson processions are in Tamsweg, St. Michael, Muhr and Ramingstein, but not all of them are on Fronleichnam.

Samson is dressed in a tunic and wears heavy armour including an lance in his hand. He wears a sword in oriental style and the helmet of a warrior. The origin of this somewhat bizarre event is not clear. The oldest evidence for the Samson procession dates back to 1635. However, it is assumed that the custom itself is much older and based on pagan fertility rituals involving giant figures.

On the 21st of June, bonfires are lit on mountaintops during the night. That looks nice and a resembles "Lord of the Rings". It is actually based on pagan customs and not on the movie, and often involved large scale BBQs, parties and a headache on the 22nd.

July & August ("Juli & August")

It is an old tradition in Austria to spend much time in these months nearby lakes in which some people practice the ritual of swimming or the drinking of beer. Otherwise, little happens in terms of ancient customs.

The 25th of July is St. Jacob′s Day. Jacob is the patron saint of peasants and shepherds and is honoured in St. Jakob am Thurn (Salzburg) with dance ceremonies. Another tradition is the wrestling competition on the mountaintop of the 2,117 metre high Mount Hundsstein. This competition is done since the Middle Ages and the winner earns the title "Hagmoar". Referees of the wrestling are equipped with a horsewhip.

On the Dürrnberg mountain near Hallein (where Salzburg′s salt mines are), the miners′ guild performs the ancient "Schwerttanz" or "Sword Dance". Never mind that there are no more miners. Now it′s employees of the company that maintains the mine for tourists. The dance is performed in traditional miner′s costumes. There are other Salzburgian communities in the South of the province with similar customs (for example Böckstein).

Back to the Lungau (the part of the country with the Samson weirdness): In Muhr and Zederhaus, the Prangstangen are carried around in a ceremonial fashion in July. They are long poles decorated with thousands of flowers. The origin of this custom is an oath that the villagers swore: if they were to be spared from a grasshopper pest, they promised to carry decorated flower poles around.

They were, and so they do. Building the Prangstangen takes many weeks and involves up to 50,000 flowers (including daffodils, daisies and Enzian) for each one. They are carried by young men of the village that are unmarried and have to children. The Prangstangen are then kept in the church until the festival of Maria Himmelfahrt on the 15th of August. After that, the flowers are burnt and used to smoke food.

September & October ("September & Oktober")

At the end of summer, there are "Almabtriebe" in all the alpine regions of Austria. Cows that have spent the summer browsing the mountains all left alone are gathered and decorated with flower ornaments and bouquets. Then they are taken down to the valleys and welcomed by the villagers. They stay in stables until spring.

Crop festival and thanksgiving customs are celebrated differently in different regions of Austria. In the East, the "Lese" or wine harvest involves many local customs. Farm markets, folk dance and feasting are common events during or just after harvest time.

The 31st of October is "All Saint′s Day" and a day to commemorate the dead. Halloween is not a traditional custom of Austria, but was introduced in American style a few years ago and becomes increasingly popular.

Traditions around the Year: Part 1 - Part 2 - Part 3

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Festivals & Events elsewhere in Austria

Vorarlberg - Tyrol (Tirol) - Salzburg - Upper Austria (Oberösterreich) - Lower Austria (Niederösterreich) - Vienna - Carinthia (Kärnten) - Styria - Burgenland